There are places that, in the imagination of each of us, represent the sum of emotions, passions and aspirations that a place on this planet could give. It could be, for example, the case of a backdrop of the Maldives for a diver, or Himalayas for a climber or even an African park for a wild animal lover. At the mouth of the Guadalquivir River, in southern Spain, in the beautiful region of Andalusia, there is one such place that is probably for the wildlife photographer, and in particular for what you interested in photography of birds, the sum of all the aspirations that he may have.

THE PARK

The park of the Coto Donana is one of the largest parks in Europe and covers the area of ​​the mouth of the river Guadalquivir in a triangle between the cities of Seville, Jerez and Huelva. It is the second largest wetland complex in importance of Western Europe after the Waddensee (the stretch of coast from Holland to the Danish territory). The Coto Doñana is the largest protected area in Spain, a biosphere reserve by UNESCO and World Heritage Site since 1994. Established in 1978, consists of two distinct areas: the National Park which occupies an area of ​​50,174 hectares and the adjacent and namesake natural park (called Entorno de Doñana) of 53,709 hectares. The origin of the name of the park is to be traced back to the sixteenth century when the seventh Duke of Medina built a palace for his wife, Doña Ana Gomez de Silva y Mendoza. The surrounding lands soon took the name of Bosque Doña Ana or Coto de Doña Ana, until the name is contracted up to what we know today.
The Coto Doñana is a land of wide open spaces and of extreme contrasts: it is a bridge between Europe and Africa; It is sandwiched between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. It is located between two continents and as such presents a quantitative and qualitative concentration of species unimaginable elsewhere. Almost half of the European bird species (of which about a hundred as many migratory and resident) for a sum of about six million of speicemen each year passes through these lands. Beyond what is of high importance to the presence of some species extinct elsewhere such as the Iberian lynx or the Spanish Imperial Eagle. It includes also extremely interesting animal species such as deer, wild boar, the otter, the wild cat, the polecat and Genet. A special case is that of the African Chameleon present in Europe only in these areas. Among amphibians, the Triton marbled, the midwife toad, the Natterjack Toad. Reptiles are well represented with species such as the ocellated lizard, the Greek tortoise, the Montpellier snake, the horseshoe Colubro, the Natrix viper, viper Lataste.

ENVIRONMENTS

As already mentioned the Coto Doñana is actually made up of two distinct areas: the National Park, strictly protected, which occupies the most precious and closest to the sea and the Natural Park or Entorno de Doñana, outside of the first zone to is the natural continuation, with less restrictive rules and where people are allowed to off-road. The natural environment, vast (over 100,000 hectares) has three main ecosystems:
The Cotos (the stable part of the park), a vast wasteland interspersed with cork trees, groves of pine, arbutus, ash. This is the kingdom of birds of prey (Imperial Eagle, Booted Eagle, Buzzard, Red Kite, Black Kite, White harrier, Kestrel etc), passerine birds (warblers, shrikes ect.)nnd rarities (Spotted Cuckoo, Red-necked Nightjar etc. .). Two special cases are those of Blue magpie found only here and in Portugal and found in Europe only in East Asia to more than 8,000 kilometers and the African chameleon present only in certain restricted areas of the park (the only site in Europe).
The Marismas, the intricate interweaving of salt marshes formed by the Guadalquivir and the other old arms of the river, lagoons, plains covered with salicornia, canals and reed beds. This is the environment in which concentrates the most species of birds, especially aquatic ones, some of which, especially in winter, are huge concentrations of individuals (70,000 wild geese, virtually all species of ducks with European tips 150,000 to 200,000 individuals, shorebirds with woodcock sea, Plovers and Grey Plovers, Curlews, Godwits real and common, Lapwings and a large number of passerines). Remarkable, in quantitative terms, the presence of the wintering of the Bittern, the Heron Egret and especially the White stork. And of course many wintering raptors and predators such as Peregrine falcons. In marismas they exist then a series of sub-estates essential to the life of the whole ecosystem of Doñana:
The Vetas raised areas, flooded and only in times of great floods and location of nesting shorebirds such as the Italian knights and Avocets. The lucios, the lower land, which remain completely flooded throughout the period of the favorite especially flamingos and avocets. The quebradas surface water available, constantly flooded and then the place of pasture ideal for waders. Finally the caños ie the natural channels that keep alive the marisma, a place beloved by the very rare Crested Coot and Purple Gallinule. Finally, the third ecosystem is represented by the beaches of mobile dunes, located between the sea and the marshes, on four fronts and wide up to 5 km, forever changing because of the sea and the wind that models pushing them towards the river that then it returns to the sea restarting the cycle.

EL ROCIO AND MOTHER DE LAS MARISMAS

To whom, however, he had organized the visit by its own means, recommend spending at least one day in the village of El Rocio. Here, among other things, there are some great hotels where you can stay although personally I would prefer to stay in the neighboring sea village of Matalascañas for several reasons. Meanwhile El Rocio is a village practically deserted for much of the year. It has no paved roads (in fact the sand is very fine) so if you are allergic or bothers the dust, it is not just the place for you. It is also right on the edge of marisma with obvious drawbacks due to humidity and mosquitoes. Conversely if you love the spartan holidays and have ability to adapt, this village will offer fantastic atmosphere and photographic moments. Suffice it to say that the "walk" of the village runs along the edge of the marsh and the benches of this walk, you can take pictures (at a 500 mm) waders and water of all kinds, red kites and brown (here truly ubiquitous) flamingos, black terns, herons, spoonbills and all other good things.

THE ROCINA

Continuing on the road from El Rocio brings in Matalascañas, even after one kilometer, you will come across on the right side of the road the Information Centre of La Rocina. The stop is a must: first for the kindness of the staff will do everything to simplify your visit providing all the information you need (but be careful to follow the rules because they are so intransigent as kind); also behind the visitor center depart pedestrian paths, for about 4 km in length overall, that will take you to the edge of a beautiful marsh full of water birds of all kinds. First, a recommendation that applies to all visitors to the park. Never forget to bring along plenty of water and a hat to protect you from the sun. Here we do not mess and temperatures of 38-40 degrees are very common. Conversely the trails are all comfortable, often in the shade and made with boardwalks, also passers-by, making the trip a walk. In the end parts are often hidden by protective walls that allow you to not be seen by the animals. A personal note: seeing the many kilometers of trails so well kept and realized I can not help but think of the difficulties that I find in many Italian protected areas because of the approximation in the management of the paths. Among other things, information about the tables are very clear. The cabanas are spectacular sighting then. For the truth they are a little distant from the swamp and in a high position, what makes them perfect for birdwatchers but less useful for the photographer. But this is not a big problem because the same path, in some places will take you to the edge of Marismas where, most likely, you will meet interesting people.

ACHEBUCHE

Acebuche is the main visitor centers of Coto Doñana. Is always on the road from El Rocio brings Matalascañas, at a distance of 11 km from the village and on right side. This is a great place for a day and maybe even for lunch, as there is also a great restaurant. It is also the best place to buy books, maps and materials on the Park. But the main reason that it will bring you to this place and that it is the best spot to watch (and photograph) one of the most remarkable endemism of Coto Doñana, the Blue magpie (Cyanopica cyana). Already in the picnic area there are dozens and very noisy. When I visited the center I was fortunate to find the bundles of firewood stacked to form small pyramids. Magpies rested on top of these piles of wood, penetrated inside, caught the little beetles and rested ..... kindly for the photographer. A visit here will not disappoint you for sure.

Do not fail to turn our gaze to the sky. the Coto Doñana can rightly be called a paradise for birds of prey: Spanish imperial eagles, minor eagles, Buzzards, Red kites, Brown kites , White harriers, kestrels and many other birds of prey fill the skies of the Park. In particular I was impressed by the huge number of Brown kites (I counted up to 40 all together) flying over marismas in search of prey. Among other things, they are the subject beautiful photographically speaking because, in some places, seem to literally ignore the photographer beneath them.

CONCLUSIONS

This report can not and does not want to be exhaustive of all that the Coto Doñana park has to offer to the nature photographer or birdwatcher who will visit. As said it would take several days to fully understand the soul of this extraordinary environment. You could, for example, speak of the extraordinary ecosystem, unique in Europe, the mobile dunes and fossil dunes, which are not mentioned in this space. Or a endemism that alone would justify a trip to this strip of southern Europe, namely the African chameleon present only here and, among other things, in very localized areas.
This article is only trying to share, in some way, emotions and sensations that a place as extraordinary as the Park of Coto Doñana will give to those who want to know and understand them and as well as an invitation to enjoy these places, an attempt to make, somehow, easier organization of a difficult journey that, once completed, will not abandon your memories for a long time.